Saturday, February 5, 2011
A typical Tet (Lunar New Year) in Vietnam
Anyways rant over, let me tell you all a little about my (observed version) of New Year in Vietnam. Firstly, let me apologise for not actually having done much research. Quite honestly, I've read 2 John Grisham novels in the last 3 days and there are no bookshops in Ben Tre (a quiet town at the gateway to the Mekong Delta) that sell any. I'm enthralled with court room and crime books, especially set in times of racial tension. That's besides the point but I haven't bothered to find out too much about the lunar calendar, how long a full lunar month is (I assume 28 days) or how many months there are in a year (I assume 12). All I do actually know is that the cities come to a stand still as everyone evacuates to their hometowns to return to their mothers who can't wait to fatten them up with home cooked meals. This means I have a 2 week holiday from work which suits me just fine!
New years Eve
The day before Tet (New years day to you and I) is a day of preparation as traditionally no housework is supposed to be done on the day of Tet. The house is cleaned, clothes are washed, dried and hung up, yellow flowers (Ochna integerrima apparently) are stationed throughout the house, people buy new clothes, shave and get a haircut. I'm not sure what it all means, but the small bits I know it's about setting up the year to have a new start and to bring good luck, wealth and health to the family. As usual, I didn't cut my hair (I didn't even get my hair cut for my wedding so what would you expect) or buy new clothes (I have enough already!) and I wasn't allowed to assist with the housework (my mother in law shouts at me whenever I try to help). The only thing I did was go to the market with my father in law to pick up some flowers and write my blog and read the entire contents on the BBC sports website.
With the house spotless, we wait until midnight. Unlike the UK where you generally go out and get smashed with your pals, the Vietnamese New Year is very much a family affair. There's various live karaoke and dance performances shown on TV similar to the awful TV that we have at home on the lead up to midnight. Each town council uses half of it's yearly budget on a grand or less grand firework display depending on which are you live in and a lot of families, friends and couples will go to see them. This year we didn't. I'm not sure why we didn't go but I think it was mostly laziness and a touch of tiredness that made staying at home more appealing.
At midnight is when it really starts to kickoff and things become traditional and strange to those not privy to the information I'm about to share. In the UK, we usually just countdown from 10 to 1 culminating in 'Happy New Year' then perhaps a toast, a kiss, hug or something equivalent. Afterwards, we continue to drink until passing out, preferably in your bed or sofa, if not on the street, in a ditch or worse of all in a prison cell. In Vietnam, things are a touch different.
In families, there is a definite hierarchy. The man of the house holds the power and respect. Not in a commanding or forceful way, just a respect figure. I'm not sure if this is unique to my in laws, or whether it's across the country, but the father and mother will be sat together (almost like a king and queen at a throne) and the children, starting with the eldest to the youngest, will then approach their parents one by one to say 'happy new year' and to wish them good fortune and health for the coming year. The parents will then do the same. After the good wishes have been exchanged, lucky money is then exchanged. Lucky money represents wealth during the year, and of course, everyone is happy to receive it. It's put inside a red envelope and you shouldn't open it until you're in a private place. I'm not sure how much your supposed to give or who you're supposed to give it to but during New Years Eve it's only immediate family involved. From what I've seen the two times I've been at my in laws for Tet, is that children who don't earn receive money but don't give any. Children who earn will give upto a months salary (divided between their mother and father) to their parents, and their parents will give them some lucky money back. After each child has spoken and exchanged lucky money with their parents, the children will then do the same with one another. The oldest child will then be approached by their younger siblings and the process is repeated until everyone has exchanged pleasantries and given and received their lucky money.
After that, the family sit together, have a couple of drinks together and nibble on some snacks. Drinks could be beer, wine, local spirits, herbal tea etc. and food could be local fruits, special breads that are popular at this time or dried beef. Sorry that I can't be more descriptive at this point, but the food is quite difficult to accurately portray. After a small feed, people drift off to bed, ready for New Year.
New Year's Day
On New Year's morning, breakfast is generally taken early. I believe cooking and perhaps washing the dishes are the only household chores which are allowable (please correct me if I'm wrong) and everyone promptly changes into the new clothes that they had bought the day before. Then, photo time for the annual family picture for the collection. For me, this part dragged on a bit as I hate having my photograph taken, but I could see that the in laws were enjoying it a lot (especially Hanh and Ngan) so I endured it as best I could.
Now for a touch more of the traditional family customs. On the first day of Tet, the wives will be at their in laws. In my case, my family is in England so I'm an exception. The family, after pictures, will all migrate to the family home where the eldest son will usually live with their parents if they are still alive. At the family home, their will be an altar to the latest generation to have passed away. For example, both my father in law's parents have died, so their is a small area of the family home devoted to them. Again, in order, the family will light a scented candle, close their eyes as if praying, and ask for luck, wealth and health for the year. They then bow 3 times, place the candle in a pot, bow 3 more times and walk away. It isn't worship is religious in any way, it's just the Vietnamese way of paying their respects to their ancestors. After that, tea is drunk, lucky money is given to nephews and nieces, and traditional foods are eaten.
I've probably completely butchered Tet holiday and what happens, so any comments would be great appreciated and I might make a few changes. This is merely what happens in my family and what I've seen and heard. I've deliberately not checked things out on the internet as no family is the same and experiences vary greatly. In a way, this is my disclaimer :-) Chuc Mung Nam Moi!!!